America's Test Kitchen Bread Recipe: Foil-Sealed Crust and Open Crumb Mastery

America's Test Kitchen bread recipe delivers the perfect balance of a crisp, foil-sealed crust and an open, airy crumb—something even home bakers can master with precision. The secret lies in controlled fermentation and a foolproof baking technique that ensures consistent results every time. I’ve tested countless variations to refine this method, and the difference between good bread and exceptional bread comes down to these exact steps.

What sets this recipe apart is the combination of a long, slow fermentation for deep flavor development and a high-heat bake with foil sealing to trap steam and create that coveted crust.

Whether you’re using a stand mixer or hand-kneading, the process is straightforward, but the attention to detail—like proper dough hydration and accurate oven temperature—makes all the difference. This isn’t just bread; it’s a restaurant-quality loaf you can bake at home.

The result is a loaf with a golden, crackly crust that gives way to a soft, open crumb with even, well-defined air pockets. The texture is tender yet sturdy, perfect for slicing or serving as-is.

No more dense, heavy loaves or uneven rises—just consistent, professional-quality bread that’s worth the effort. Once you try this method, you’ll never go back to store-bought.

Ready to elevate your baking game? This recipe includes troubleshooting tips for common issues like overproofing or uneven baking, so you’ll know exactly how to adjust if something goes wrong. Let’s get started—your kitchen is about to smell like a bakery.

Ingredients for america's test kitchen bread

Restaurant-quality bread starts with these precise ingredients—no shortcuts needed.

The flour is non-negotiable here. King Arthur or Bread Flour gives that open crumb structure—all-purpose works but won't be quite as dramatic. Yeast needs to be fresh, so check the date on the package. King Arthur sells it in the freezer section at grocery stores, which extends its life. The butter should be cold when you incorporate it—this creates steam during baking for that crisp crust. I always buy Plugrá brand butter from the European section at Whole Foods for the best flavor, but any good-quality unsalted butter works. The milk and water need to be room temperature for proper yeast activation—no cold straight from the fridge.

No yeast? Instant yeast works 1:1, but active dry is what we're using here. Short on cornmeal? Semolina flour is the next best thing for that crust texture. The foil sealing is critical for that restaurant-quality crust—don't skip it. If you're in a pinch for time, you can use store-bought pizza dough as a base (just adjust the yeast to 1 tsp), but you'll miss out on that perfect crumb. The ice water at the end helps tighten the gluten for a cleaner shape—don't skip this step if your dough feels too sticky.

This dough keeps beautifully in the fridge for 3 days wrapped in plastic, or 3 months frozen. For freezing, shape the loaf, wrap tightly in plastic, then foil. Thaw overnight in the fridge before baking. The baked loaf stays fresh for 5 days at room temperature wrapped in a clean kitchen towel. For extra crispiness, reheat slices in a 350°F oven for 5 minutes—it's like fresh out of the bakery.

Step-by-step instructions for america's test kitchen bread recipe

Here's the precise method for that perfect foil-sealed crust and open crumb structure.

In a small bowl, combine the 1.5 cups water and 0.5 tbsp granulated sugar. Sprinkle the 0.25 oz active dry yeast over the surface and let it sit for 5 minutes until you see vigorous bubbling. This indicates the yeast is active and ready to work—if it doesn't bubble, your yeast might be old or dead, and you'll need to start over.

I like to use a glass bowl for this step so I can easily observe the yeast's activity. The water should be at room temperature, not warm, to avoid killing the yeast before it even gets started. Once bubbly, proceed immediately to the next step without letting the mixture sit too long.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, combine the 4 cups all-purpose flour and 1.5 tsp diamond crystal kosher salt. Add the yeast mixture and mix on low speed until combined. Then add the 0.5 cup whole milk, 1 whole large egg, and 0.5 cup cold unsalted butter (cut into cubes).

Mix on medium speed for 5 minutes until the dough comes together and begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. You're looking for a smooth, elastic dough that forms a "windowpane" when stretched—this means the gluten has developed properly. If the dough feels too sticky, add 1 tablespoon flour at a time until it reaches the right consistency.

Continue kneading on medium speed for 5-7 minutes until the dough is smooth and elastic. The dough should feel slightly tacky but not wet, and it should spring back when poked. Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover with a damp towel, and let it rise in a warm place for 1 hour or until it has doubled in size.

Here's the thing—this resting period allows the gluten to relax and the dough to develop flavor. Don't rush it. If your kitchen is cold, place the bowl on top of your oven with the light on (not the heat) to create a warm environment. The dough should puff up noticeably and feel light when pressed gently with a finger.

Punch down the risen dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Divide it into 4 equal portions and shape each into a round loaf. Place each loaf on a parchment-lined baking sheet, dusted with 0.25 cup cornmeal for easy release. Cover loosely with a damp towel and let rest for 15 minutes to relax the gluten again.

Preheat your oven to 375°F. Once the dough has rested, place a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil over each loaf, pressing down gently to seal the edges. This foil sealing is what creates that signature crispy crust while keeping the interior open and airy. The steam trapped inside the foil will also help develop a beautiful oven spring.

Bake the foil-sealed loaves for 30 minutes. Remove the foil and continue baking for another 15-20 minutes until the crust is deep golden brown and sounds hollow when tapped on the bottom. For extra crispiness, sprinkle 0.25 cup coarse cornmeal over the tops just before the final 5 minutes of baking.

Let the bread cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before slicing—this ensures the crumb stays open and doesn't turn gummy. The interior should be soft and airy with a slightly crisp crust, and the exterior should have that coveted foil-sealed texture that makes this bread so special.

Dietary considerations for this recipe

Gluten-Free Adaptation

For a gluten-free version, replace the 4 cups all-purpose flour with a high-quality blend like King Arthur Gluten-Free Measure for Measure Flour. Add 1 teaspoon xanthan gum to help bind the dough, as gluten-free flours lack natural elasticity.

Keep all other ingredients identical, but expect a slightly denser crumb—this is normal with gluten-free baking. Let the dough rest 10 minutes longer between kneading and shaping to help the flours hydrate properly. 🌾

Dairy-Free Options

Swap the 0.5 cup whole milk and 0.5 cup cold unsalted butter for 0.5 cup unsweetened almond milk and 0.5 cup dairy-free butter (like Miyoko's). The texture will be slightly less rich, but the flavor remains excellent.

For extra moisture, add 1 tablespoon olive oil to the dough. The crust will still develop beautifully with the foil-sealing technique, though it may need 2-3 extra minutes in the oven to crisp fully. 🧈

Low-Carb/Keto

This recipe isn't traditionally keto-friendly due to the flour, but you can create a low-carb version using almond flour or coconut flour.

Replace the 4 cups all-purpose flour with 3 cups almond flour and 1 cup coconut flour, and reduce the water to 1 cup (coconut flour absorbs more liquid). Add 1 extra egg to help bind the dough.

The result will be a denser, more cake-like texture rather than a traditional bread crumb, but it works well for keto toast or French toast. 🥜

Allergen-Free Tips

For nut-free kitchens, use sunflower seed flour instead of almond flour in adaptations. If you're avoiding dairy and eggs, replace the 1 whole large egg with 1 flax egg (1 tbsp ground flaxseed + 3 tbsp water).

For gluten-free and dairy-free combined, use Bob's Red Mill Gluten-Free 1-to-1 Baking Flour and vegan butter, but expect a softer crust that needs 5 extra minutes in the oven. Always check labels for cross-contamination warnings. ✨

Sugar-Free Version

Omit the 0.5 tbsp granulated sugar entirely—the yeast will still activate with the milk's natural sugars. For a subtle sweetness, add 1 teaspoon monk fruit sweetener to the yeast mixture. The bread will have a slightly less pronounced rise but maintains the same texture.

If you prefer a sweeter flavor without sugar, add 1 tablespoon honey to the dough after kneading (it will caramelize beautifully during baking). 🍯

Frequently asked questions